Travis Bickle — the mentally unstable protagonist in 1976’s “Taxi Driver,” portrayed by Robert De Niro — walked Advisry’s Spring 2027 runway on Tuesday. Well, sort of. To better understand our current era’s perpetual state of chaos, Creative Director Keith Herron looked toward the 1970s — a decade rife with political tension and social unrest. (I wonder what that’s like.)

“It’s really reflecting on how every generation feels that they’re living through the end of the world,” Herron told Fashionista at his studio ahead of the label’s show on Tuesday. “So, in doing so, I took a look back at how this nation felt 50 years prior in the ’70s.”

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Staged in three separate acts, Advisry’s Spring 2027 collection (titled “America, Still”) opens with a procession of croc leather straitjackets and distressed denim inspired by Bickle, who represents New York City’s gritty past. Though, as the show notes read: “This is not glorifying. It is diagnosing.” A mohawked model even wore a military jacket made in the specific army green color Bickle wears in “Taxi Driver.”

The collection’s second act introduces formal suiting with checkerboard motifs sprinkled throughout. Pearl masks concealed models’ faces, while sculptural fascinators accessorized buttoned-up coats. Herron used “fringe wool,” as he calls it, throughout this section, most prominently shown in the ruffled linings on jackets. “It’s to symbolize how something that can be perfectly constructed can still come apart at its edges,” he said.

Its third act bursts with color, as seen in sequin basketball shorts, furry gloves and striped sweaters made from glitter yarn (a new fabric for the label, Herron said). The pearl motifs that veiled models’ faces in the second act travel down to a cream-colored jacket embellished with the gemstones. When addressing this section of the show in the collection’s show notes, Herron specifically called out Nina Simone, Sly Stone and Gil Scott-Heron, referring to them as “the people who took everything from the first two acts and made something beautiful from it.”

Ahead, see all the looks from Advisry’s Spring 2027 collection.

Advisry Spring 2027

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